Must-See Places in Istanbul

Travel notes

Istanbul is a cultural capital, spanning Asia and Europe and having been home to some of the world's greatest empires. So many cultures have passed through and left their marks. It is such a living city, with so much to see. You know the saying, 'I've travelled so much, but never found anywhere like Istanbul'? That is exactly how I feel 😊 I am still travelling and still haven't found its equal. I didn't get to live there for very long, but the time I did spend left me wanting more. Of course, alongside the lovely things are difficulties: crowds, terrible traffic and the sheer complexity of so many different people and cultures. Yet somehow it draws you in. I once said I would never go or live there, then fell so deeply for it that I still miss its very scent. Add that to homesickness, and oh dear… Anyway, let's get back to the subject and explore the main sights 😊

Sultanahmet Mosque—the Blue Mosque

Commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I, this was Turkey's first six-minaret mosque and is among Istanbul's most important and magnificent buildings. The blue effect of its white, blue and green İznik tiles led visitors to call it the Blue Mosque.

Hagia Sophia, described as a mosque-museum in the original post

Mehmed II chose Hagia Sophia for his first Friday prayer after conquering Istanbul. Completed in 537 under Emperor Justinian, it served as a Byzantine church for 916 years, then as a mosque for 482 years after the 1453 conquest, according to this account. At the time this article was published, it operated as a museum. The grounds also contain tombs of sultans and members of the imperial household.

Topkapı Palace

One of Mehmed II's great additions to Istanbul and the Ottoman state after the conquest, Topkapı was built between 1460 and 1478. It was home to sultans and the centre of administration and education, where princes were trained and the state governed. Mehmed called it Saray-ı Cedid, the New Palace. My notes explained that after a later waterfront palace called Topkapusu, named for its ceremonial cannons, burned down, the name Topkapı passed to this palace. The complex contains the harem, courtyards, gardens, pavilions and quarters for staff and administration. Displays include sacred relics, weapons, imperial clothing, the treasury, kitchen objects, foreign decorations and gifts, and the harem apartments. The treasury's star is the famous 86-carat Spoonmaker's Diamond, surrounded by 49 diamonds in my account. The sacred relics described here include a casing associated with the Kaaba's Black Stone, Moses' staff, David's sword, Joseph's robe, garments and a prayer rug attributed to Fatima, and swords of the Prophet's companions. Put this near the top of your Istanbul list. Entry is through a large gate beside Hagia Sophia. From Eminönü, my suggested journey was about 15 minutes on foot or three to four minutes by tram.

The Basilica Cistern

My notes date this roughly 10,000-square-metre cistern to AD 542, built under Justinian to supply the Great Palace. Its haunting atmosphere also provides a setting for events. Don't leave without seeing it. It appeared in the Tom Hanks film Inferno too.

The Maiden's Tower

The Maiden's Tower is one of Istanbul's defining sights. Its famous story is a legend, of course, but goes like this. A Byzantine emperor was so delighted by his daughter's birth that he made her birthday a national celebration. He asked scholars to prepare her for the throne, but the eldest foretold that she would die from a snakebite before turning eighteen. The emperor restored the tower on a small island and placed her there for safety. Years passed, and just before her eighteenth birthday, a snake hidden in a basket of grapes delivered to the tower bit her. Grieving and recognising that fate could not be escaped, he feared snakes would reach her body if she were buried. He had her embalmed and placed in a brass coffin high on a wall of Hagia Sophia. The legend says there are two holes in the coffin even now, because the snake would not leave her alone after death. A sad story with a tragic ending. The tower itself has stood in the sea through Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman and republican eras. At the time of this post, following restoration, it served visitors as a restaurant and café.

Galata Tower

A symbol of Istanbul, the tower was privately operated at the time of this article. My notes described its earliest origins as uncertain, mentioning a tower under Justinian in AD 507 and the Genoese giving it its present form in 1348. They called it the Tower of Christ, while the Byzantine name was the Great Tower. Enjoy the view from the balcony. The original post also mentioned a restaurant at the top.

Eminönü

One of Istanbul's busiest places, famous for the long tradition of fish sold from boats. Eating balık ekmek—a fish sandwich—with şalgam, fermented turnip juice, beside the sea is a special pleasure. My original account linked the New Mosque's commissioning to Safiye Sultan and recorded its completion in 1663. It is one of Eminönü's and Istanbul's most beautiful buildings.

Taksim

The square takes its name from the historic water-distribution building behind the Republic Monument. In Ottoman times, water was stored and distributed—'taksim'—to surrounding neighbourhoods here. The area was enlarged into a square when the Republic Monument was erected in 1928. Its circular base became part of the pedestrian setting of İstiklal Avenue. Today, the square and surrounding district are a centre for culture, entertainment and shopping, with shops, cinemas, theatres, studios, galleries and nightlife. The monument and square host national ceremonies and remain a meeting point for people visiting İstiklal and the nearby streets.

İstiklal Avenue, Beyoğlu

Walking along İstiklal and soaking up its atmosphere is wonderful. Cafés, restaurants and bars tucked into its side streets make it unique. With something for every taste, it has an atmosphere I struggle to find anywhere else.

The Spice Bazaar

Part of the New Mosque complex, the Egyptian or Spice Bazaar once sold goods and spices arriving from Egypt, especially Cairo. It remains popular with local and international visitors and offers all kinds of spices. My original paragraph then returns to İstiklal: always a cultural mosaic, with side streets that are worlds of their own and more to discover than you can ever finish.

The Grand Bazaar

Between Beyazıt, Mercan and Nuruosmaniye, the Grand Bazaar was described in my notes as the world's oldest and largest covered market. The figures listed were 24 gates, five mosques, ten wells, seven fountains, an ablution fountain, a school, a public water kiosk, around 4,000 shops and about 66 streets. Mehmed II began its foundation in 1461, while major sections were added under Suleiman the Magnificent. Be sure to visit this beating heart of Istanbul.

Dolmabahçe Palace

In Beşiktaş, between the Bosphorus and Dolmabahçe Avenue running from Kabataş, the palace occupies a site described here as 250,000 square metres. Four centuries earlier, it was a large bay where the Ottoman admiral's ships anchored and naval celebrations took place. As it silted up, it was filled and became an imperial garden for leisure. During the Republic, it hosted foreign representatives; its final permanent guest was Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who died here on 10 November 1938. Its decoration, architectural detail, handwoven carpets, chandeliers, glass pavilion, ceremonial quarters, collections, baths and the room containing Atatürk's bed make it an essential place to encounter recent history. The visiting hours recorded in this older article were 9 am–4 pm, closed Mondays and Thursdays; check current arrangements before going.

Istanbul Archaeological Museums

My notes described this as Turkey's and Istanbul's oldest museum, housed in a striking example of neoclassical architecture. Within the complex, the Tiled Pavilion displays around 2,000 Seljuk and Ottoman ceramic works from the 11th to early 20th centuries. Tiles from Kütahya, Çanakkale, İznik and elsewhere are grouped by origin. I recommend seeing these remarkable works and experiencing this journey through world history.

Yedikule Fortress

The account in this article links the original fortifications with ceremonial welcomes for important Byzantine guests and four watchtowers associated with Theodosius II's family. After conquering Istanbul, Mehmed II added three towers and connecting walls, producing the seven towers behind the name Yedikule. It held the state treasury and later became a prison for notable captives. The best-known tragedy was the killing of the young Sultan Osman II by Janissaries. In more recent years, a private operator held concerts and events there, and it could be visited as a museum at publication.

Rumeli Fortress

Before conquering Istanbul, Mehmed II built Rumeli Hisarı at the Bosphorus's narrowest point, in today's Sarıyer district, to block aid arriving from the Black Sea. My notes described it as a museum with outdoor displays of cannon, cannonballs and chains said to have closed the Golden Horn during the conquest, and as a venue for summer concerts and events.

Pierre Loti Hill

With a wonderful Golden Horn view, this hill is named after French writer Julien Viaud, better known as Pierre Loti, who often spent time in a coffeehouse here. A proposal to change the name was rejected in the account I recorded. Alongside the view are visitor facilities for breakfast, meals, accommodation, coffee, tea and shisha, and Ramadan meals such as sahur and iftar. Breakfast overlooking the water is especially popular with Istanbul residents and visitors. The hill is in Eyüp, looking over the Golden Horn.

The Princes' Islands

Off Istanbul's Asian shore are Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kınalıada, Sivriada, Yassıada, Sedef Island, Tavşan Island and Kaşık Island. At the time of the original post, private motor vehicles were prohibited apart from official vehicles. Originally Roman settlements, the islands became places of exile for Byzantine princes, hence their English name. The ferry and sea-bus departure points listed here included Sirkeci, Kabataş, Bostancı and Kartal. Regular services were described to Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada, Kınalıada and Sedef, with private boats needed for other islands. These transport notes are historical.

Miniatürk

This 60,000-square-metre park displays miniature landmarks of the Ottoman Empire and Turkey. My notes called it the world's largest model park. Among its models are Galata Tower, the Maiden's Tower, Uludağ, the Bosphorus Bridge, Mount Nemrut's ruins, Mostar Bridge, the Temple of Artemis and Topkapı Palace. Scanning the barcode on your entry ticket at the audio stations gave information about each structure and its history. You could spend almost a whole day exploring. The bus routes recorded were 54 HT from Taksim, 54 HŞ from Şişli and 41 ST from Topkapı, or the Metrobus to Halıcıoğlu followed by 41 ST.

Istanbul Aquarium

Described in my original notes as the world's largest thematic aquarium, it offered activities such as shark diving, a maze, feeding times, 5D cinema and a simulated helicopter ride—enough to fill a memorable day.

Bebek

Bebek's waterfront is wonderful for a weekend walk, fresh Bosphorus air and lovely views. Popular with foreign residents too, it has many well-known restaurants and cafés. Sit on a bench in Bebek Park or stroll beside the water. Lucca, with its broad menu, was one of the busiest favourites. Waffle lovers also queued at Bebek Waffle and Abbas Waffle.

Nişantaşı

With cafés, venues and fashionable shops, Nişantaşı is one of Istanbul's most stylish districts. My account links its growth with palace officials moving here after Abdülhamid II settled at Yıldız Palace. Many beautiful historic buildings remain. Its name comes from the marker stones placed where sultans' arrows or shots hit targets during shooting practice. Teşvikiye Mosque was built in 1854 under Abdülmecid; its name referred to encouraging settlement. Abdi İpekçi Street brings together famous brands and cafés and is especially attractive with New Year decorations. Pedestrian Atiye Street has many restaurants and cafés, with The House Café and Hardal among the lively favourites I listed. City's Nişantaşı is a compact shopping centre with selected stores, upper-floor dining and cinemas.

Kadıköy

Before the conquest, Kadıköy was known as Chalcedon. My notes explain that its administration later passed to Istanbul's kadı, or judge, giving it its current name. It is better known for entertainment and shopping streets than historic monuments. Still, Haydarpaşa station is one of the city's grandest buildings. Built in 1906–1908 under Abdülhamid II by German architects Otto Ritter and Helmuth Cuno, it takes its name from Haydar Pasha, associated with Selim III. It suffered several fires, most recently in 2010 in this account, when the roof and upper floor were badly damaged. Kadıköy's famous bull statue is a meeting point. The story recorded here links its creation to a French victory over Germany in 1860, then its presentation by Wilhelm II to the Ottoman Empire as a symbol of friendship. Its Istanbul journey took it from Yıldız Palace to several Taksim-area locations, including the Hilton garden and the areas of today's Gezi Park and Lütfi Kırdar centre. In the 1970s it moved to the Asian side outside the municipality, and in 1990 to Altıyol, its familiar setting. Walking Kadıköy's streets and sitting in its cafés is a particular pleasure: a fine place to begin an Istanbul escape.

Karaköy

One of Istanbul's oldest commercial centres, Karaköy is famous for banks and historic business buildings. Genoese, Umayyad, Byzantine and Ottoman eras all feature in the account of its past. Every street seems to reveal another historic building. Bankalar Caddesi, once an Ottoman financial hub, is lined with grand architecture. Areas once used by French merchants now host fashionable venues. For breakfast, Namlı Gurme was a favourite, while Karaköy Güllüoğlu is one of the names most associated with Istanbul baklava. Don't leave without trying it!

Viaport

Near the city's edge in Pendik–Kurtköy, Viaport combines hundreds of outlet shops with fast-food chains and restaurants. Unlike an enclosed mall, its shops are outdoors. The brands listed in the original article included Vakko, Puma, Reebok, Adidas, Nike, Calvin Klein, Timberland, Lacoste, Tommy Hilfiger, LC Waikiki, Mudo, Dagi, Beymen, Koton, US Polo, Fabrika, Ramsey, D'S Damat, Altınyıldız and Electro World, offering discounted shopping across many categories.

Vialand

At publication, my notes called Vialand Turkey's first and only theme park. They described four areas—Adventure World, Play World, Legends World and the Castle—on a 600,000-square-metre site within Eyüp and Gaziosmanpaşa. It offered a full day of family entertainment.

Emirgan Grove

A huge green space overlooking the Bosphorus between Emirgan and İstinye in Sarıyer. After changing hands many times, it was given by Sultan Abdülaziz to Egypt's Khedive Ismail Pasha in the 19th century. Three pavilions built between 1871 and 1878 survive as the Yellow, Pink and White Pavilions. In 1940, Mayor Lütfi Kırdar's initiative brought the grove into public ownership and opened it as a park.

French Street

Behind Galatasaray High School, off İstiklal in Beyoğlu, the once-neglected Cezayir Street was renovated and promoted as French Street. Aiming to evoke French culture, it developed an atmospheric collection of cafés, restaurants and arts spaces, popular for a day around İstiklal.

Ortaköy

Beneath the European end of the Bosphorus Bridge, Ortaköy is loved for its magnificent waterfront mosque, colourful market area between mosque, church and synagogue, and lively atmosphere. Nightlife, bars, waterfront cafés and restaurants around İskele Square, and kumpir—loaded baked-potato—shops make it a favourite meeting place.

Pera Palace

Pera Palace Hotel has witnessed events from the occupation of Istanbul and the world wars to the War of Independence and the Republic's proclamation. Guests mentioned in my notes included Atatürk, Edward VIII, Agatha Christie, Elizabeth II, İsmet İnönü, Alfred Hitchcock and Pierre Loti. Its museum-hotel identity is especially tied to Atatürk, who used it like a home between campaigns, received senior visitors and made important decisions here. Room 101, his usual room, opened as a museum in 1981 for his birth centenary, displaying personal belongings and decorated largely in dawn pink, a colour he loved.

Bağdat Avenue

Known across Istanbul, not just in Kadıköy, Bağdat Avenue is a busy meeting and shopping destination with cafés, fast-food outlets, famous restaurant chains and major brands. My original post cited it as the world's fourth-best shopping street. After browsing its many shops, settle into a café for a coffee and a rest.

Caddebostan waterfront

Along the long shore towards Kartal, you can walk, cycle, picnic on the grass and look towards the islands, or have coffee and food in cafés and restaurants.

Polonezköy

Polonezköy feels both close to and far from Istanbul. My directions were to turn from the Asian-side exit of the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge towards Beykoz–Ümraniye and continue about 12 kilometres. It is roughly 20 kilometres from the Black Sea and 15 from the Bosphorus. At the time, I wrote that there was no public transport and a private vehicle was needed. The village was founded in 1842 on land acquired from Lazarist Christians for Polish soldiers seeking a new life after escaping compulsory Russian military service. Its original name, Adampol, means Adam's village, honouring Prince Adam Czartoryski, who fought for the exiles' right to settle. Some returned after Poland regained independence in 1918. When Atatürk visited in 1934, residents still farmed, cut timber and sold leather goods; they became Turkish citizens in 1938 in this account. The house where he stayed is worth seeing. The village hosted figures such as Liszt, Flaubert and Pierre Loti in the 19th century, and guesthouses developed from the 1960s. At the entrance to the square are a church and Catholic cemetery. The green surroundings offer country restaurants, picnic areas and accommodation, especially lovely in May and June. The nature-protection area is part of the national-parks system. Outdoor brunch, village breakfasts and cook-your-own barbecue venues are famous here: bring your ingredients and meat, with the venue providing equipment.

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