Places to Visit and Local Spots in Cihangir

Travel notes

Where is Cihangir?

After the young death of Prince Cihangir, son of Suleiman the Magnificent and Hürrem Sultan, the sultan commissioned a mosque on this hill overlooking Istanbul in 1559–1560. Designed by Mimar Sinan and named for the prince, it gave the neighbourhood its name. An early Ottoman document described people of ill repute living here. In the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, the area mixed entertainment workers and brothels with luxurious apartments, wealthy residents, doctors, dentists and private clinics. From the late 1980s, it evolved alongside the revival of İstiklal and became known as an artists' or intellectuals' neighbourhood, with writers, actors, painters and musicians living or spending time here.

Reading all that, I used to think Cihangir was overhyped—until I finally visited last week 🙂 It really wasn't. Alongside unconventional, intellectual-looking people, it has a distinctive atmosphere. As one of Istanbul's older districts, it appealed to my love of old buildings, antiques and timeworn things. A decade earlier, few people seemed interested, but new cafés and celebrity associations made it fashionable. Sitting in a famous café almost makes you feel as though you are waiting to be discovered 🙂 We saw foreign visitors as well as all sorts of locals. I liked the relaxed cafés, weathered interiors and different characters. There were lots of cats too; the area is famous for them. Now, those well-known cafés:

1. Smyrna Café

When it opened in 2002, apparently none of today's rows of cafés were there. It helped start Cihangir's café scene. Its design and food made it a habit for many people, though it remained a neighbourhood spot. Celebrity sightings could become so normal that you stopped reacting. The names mentioned in the original post included Serenay Sarıkaya, Tan Taşçı and Selçuk Yöntem.

2. Café Firuz

Along the same row as Firuzağa Kahvesi, it had a regular crowd at almost any hour, often at the same tables. You might call one the celebrities' table. Directors and well-known actors were among the people associated with it.

3. Firuzağa Kahvesi

Also called Asmalı Kahve, this popular, informal neighbourhood coffeehouse sits at the end of the street beneath the mosque. Sip tea or coffee, read the newspaper and enjoy the atmosphere. It was busy throughout the day and popular with celebrities as well. Remember that this really is a traditional coffeehouse: apart from toasties, there wasn't much food. You could bring a pastry or sandwich from nearby shops and order a drink here. Among the familiar names associated with it, I mentioned filmmaker Zeki Demirkubuz.

4. Aliye Meyhane

Its appetising meze drew people of all ages. Rutkay Aziz, Halil Ergün and Can Bonomo were among the regulars named in the original post.

5. Susam Café

On Susam Street, this was something of a neighbourhood bar, with a menu from breakfast to dinner and a homely feel. The regulars mentioned included Ata Demirer, Çağan Irmak and Işın Karaca, alongside television writers and actors.

6. Savoy Balıkçısı

The well-known guests listed here included Ece Uslu, Erdem Yener, Teoman, Mehmet Turgut and Aydın Boysan.

7. White Mill

The names associated with it in this post were Rıza Kocaoğlu, Mustafa Erdoğan, director Mustafa Altıoklar and Sertaç Özgümüş.

8. Mona

Between all these venues and famous names, I nearly forgot Cihangir's colourful steps 🙂 What is the advantage of being on Istanbul's hillsides? Wonderful views, of course. Let its peaceful atmosphere give you a breather from the city, and don't forget the neighbourhood cats that locals love so much.

Cihangir

Cihangir, İstanbul

Here are my own photographs showing how Istanbul looks from Cihangir.

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