Places to Visit in Izmir

Travel notes

Population: 4,168,415 (as recorded in the original article)

Vehicle registration code: 35

İzmir from Kadifekale

The Clock Tower, an enduring symbol of İzmir

The pearl of the Aegean

İzmir is Turkey’s third-largest city, an important port and a centre for trade fairs, including the annual İzmir International Fair. The Aegean Sea and islands lie to its west, Aydın to the south, Balıkesir to the north and Manisa to the east. West of the city, the Çeşme Peninsula stretches towards the sea with beaches and thermal springs. Nearby Ephesus, one of antiquity’s best-known cities, became one of the Roman Empire’s great urban centres and carried the artistic and cultural legacy of Ionia. Names such as ‘Beautiful İzmir’, ‘Old İzmir’ and ‘the Pearl of Ionia’ capture the region’s appeal. İzmir sits at the head of a long, narrow bay filled with boats and ships, with palms and broad avenues along the waterfront. My original notes described its port as second only to Mersin’s. It is a lively, cosmopolitan city with international arts festivals and universities including Dokuz Eylül, Ege and İzmir University of Economics. Really, I should have written about İzmir much earlier: my husband is from here, and when I lived in a nearby city, I always had one foot in İzmir! Apparently the time has only just come. 🙂 I love both the city and its people—the warmth and politeness I encounter, and the modern, progressive outlook and affection for Atatürk that matter to me personally.

İzmir’s food

The olive-growing Aegean is famous for olive-oil dishes and meze. İzmir’s cooking is not a single, uniform tradition: alongside Ottoman influences, it brings together Jewish, Armenian and Greek flavours, with Italian and French touches too. Fish from the Aegean is a highlight, but so are wild greens and vegetables cooked in olive oil. Salads made with samphire, spinach, cibez greens, fennel and nettles are especially well known. Tire meatballs and boyoz are other local favourites.

Black-eyed peas

İzmir-style meatballs

And of course there is boyoz, İzmir kumru and lokma! Boyoz is a pastry traditionally eaten with an egg—another delicious treat among so many. 🙂

Getting to and around İzmir

You can reach İzmir by road, air, sea or rail. Adnan Menderes Airport has connections within Turkey and abroad. When I wrote this, trains from Basmane served Tire, Ödemiş, Söke, Aydın, Nazilli and Denizli, while my notes listed Konya, Ankara, Eskişehir, Uşak and Balıkesir among the destinations reached from Alsancak. The İzmirim Kart electronic travel card replaces paper tickets on public transport. ESHOT and İzulaş operate buses. My original transport notes described bus connections at Bornova and Üçyol, buses and İZBAN suburban trains at Halkapınar, and buses and ferries at Konak. They listed metro service from 06:00 to midnight, roughly every 7½ minutes. Routes, departure stations and timetables can change, so check the current operators before travelling.

Ferries and piers: at the time of writing, services between Karşıyaka/Bostanlı and Konak had been increased to roughly every 20 minutes, with improvements to the piers. The eight piers listed were Bostanlı, Karşıyaka, Bayraklı, Alsancak, Pasaport, Konak, Göztepe and Üçkuyular. Check today’s ferry timetable before setting out.

What to see and do in İzmir

Kemeraltı

Kemeraltı is a busy trading district and bazaar with a long history. Kızlarağası Hanı, commissioned by Hacı Beşir Ağa in 1744, is one of its landmarks. The bazaar has evolved into a major shopping area: some vaulted and domed shops retain their historic character, while modern shops, business premises, cafés and cinemas have also become part of the neighbourhood. You can browse Turkish crafts here, including ceramics, decorative tiles, wooden and metal objects, flat-woven textiles, carpets and kilims.

The Clock Tower

Designed by Raymond Charles Péré in 1901, the tower commemorated the 25th anniversary of Sultan Abdülhamid II’s accession in 1876. Its circular fountain-inspired design has four fountains and columns with North African influences. The clock was a gift from German Emperor Wilhelm II. My original account noted that it stopped during İzmir’s 1974 earthquake: the upper section above the clock faces collapsed, and the hands stopped at 02:04, the time of the earthquake. The tower was repaired over the following two years and the clock set running again.

İzmir International Fair

One of Turkey’s longest-established and best-known fairs, the İzmir International Fair was traditionally held for around ten days in September, including 9 September, the anniversary of the city’s liberation. With its ‘Turkey’s window to the world’ slogan, it played a major role in promoting the country and international trade. People told me it no longer attracted quite the enthusiasm it once did, and that its atmosphere had changed. Outside fair dates, the grounds offered lawns, a running track, tennis and golf clubs, an amusement park and play areas, as well as space for TÜYAP and other exhibitions. Check current events and park rules before visiting.

The Historic Elevator

The elevator tower links Mithatpaşa Street with Şehit Nihatbey Street, about 58 metres above it. Jewish businessman Nesim Levi Bayraklıoğlu commissioned it in 1907 to make travel between two neighbourhoods easier than climbing 155 steps. It became an important visitor attraction and a municipal leisure and cultural space. When I visited, the lift was operating, with a café and a small viewing balcony at the top. Go up for a wonderful panorama of İzmir.

Konak Pier

Konak Pier is a waterfront landmark in Konak with a historic metal-framed building, shops, restaurants and cinemas. My original article repeated the often-told attribution of its 1860 design to Gustave Eiffel, the engineer associated with the Eiffel Tower; that attribution should not be treated here as verified architectural history. Its waterside setting and mix of leisure venues make it appealing to visitors and locals alike.

The Kordon waterfront

The Kordon, stretching along the sea between Konak Square and Alsancak, is one of İzmir’s defining places. It is a lovely setting for a walk, lively at almost any hour, with cafés and restaurants around it. My original visit also mentioned horse-drawn carriage rides, particularly in the evenings and at weekends; this is a recollection, not a current service listing. In good weather, people sit on the grass, chat and enjoy the view across the bay.

Alsancak and Kıbrıs Şehitleri Street

Beyond Cumhuriyet Square, Alsancak offers waterfront cafés and plenty of shops. Browse during the day, then settle down for dinner—fish or whatever you fancy—with a sea view and the sunset. Shops, restaurants, bars and cafés make this a lively, enjoyable neighbourhood.

Cumhuriyet Square

The cable car

The Balçova cable-car station is opposite İzmir University of Economics, around 20 minutes from central İzmir in my original notes, and was also accessible by bus. At the time, tickets were sold from 10:00 to 21:00, the cable car ran until 22:30, Mondays were closed and children aged 0–5 travelled free. Please check current arrangements. At the top, take a photograph of İzmir from the viewing terrace, then follow the path past benches and cafés. At its end we found a shop called Et Evi, where you could buy bread, prepared salad, packaged cups, cutlery and plates, drinks and your choice of meat. We also requested a barbecue at the till, paid what felt like a very reasonable amount, and chose a table outside.

The ancient city of Ephesus

Ephesus, or Ephesos in Greek, lies near Selçuk in İzmir province on western Anatolia’s coast. An ancient Greek city that later became a major Roman centre, it was one of the twelve cities of classical Ionia, with settlement in the wider area reaching back to the Neolithic period around 6000 BC. It joined UNESCO’s Tentative List in 1994 and became a World Heritage Site in 2015. Every step reveals history and art; even the surviving fragments of its buildings are magnificent. I do not think one visit is enough: excavations continue, so return trips can bring new discoveries. The city was repeatedly damaged by earthquakes and rebuilt, and eventually lost its harbour as sediment from the Meander River accumulated. My original notes described a roughly two-kilometre visitor route and estimated that only 15% of the ruins had been uncovered. In addition to its commercial and political importance, Ephesus was associated with the Temple of Artemis and with figures in science, art and culture. Its role in early Christianity also gives it religious significance for Christian visitors and pilgrims.

The Temple of Artemis: one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, the sanctuary had a history reaching back to the seventh century BC. My original notes described it as the ancient world’s first all-marble temple. King Croesus of Lydia sponsored the great temple dedicated to Artemis, designed by a Greek architect and adorned with bronze sculptures by prominent artists. The dimensions recorded in my notes were about 130 by 68 metres, with a west-facing entrance. It functioned as both a religious centre and a place of exchange. In 356 BC, Herostratus set it on fire in an attempt to make his name immortal. Tradition places Alexander the Great’s birth on that same night; after his conquest of Anatolia, his offer to help rebuild the temple was reportedly declined. Only a few marble remains survive today.

The Library of Celsus: one of Ephesus’s most beautiful Roman buildings, it served as both a library and a funerary monument. After Celsus, the Roman official associated with Ephesus, died, his son commissioned the library in his memory. Celsus’s sarcophagus lies beneath the building, and scrolls were once kept in niches in the walls. The façade was reconstructed during the 1970s, restoring much of its extraordinary visual impact.

The Great Theatre: built into the western slope of Panayır Hill, the theatre faces the former harbour and could once be seen from far away by arriving ships. Its Hellenistic foundations make use of the natural rock, and my notes give a capacity of around 24,000 spectators and a diameter of 150 metres. It is one of the largest and most striking parts of the site. During the Roman period it hosted gladiatorial contests as well as performances and public meetings. In Byzantine times, part of the stage building was incorporated into the city’s defences and used as a watchtower, ending its original role.

The House of the Virgin Mary: this chapel on Bülbüldağı is traditionally associated with Mary spending her final years with Saint John. It is a Christian pilgrimage destination and has been visited by several popes. My original article also mentioned differing local traditions about her death and burial, including a claim concerning Silifke; those traditions should not be read as established biblical or historical fact.

The Cave of the Seven Sleepers: associated with seven Christian youths said to have taken refuge from pagan persecution near Panayır Hill, the site became a funerary church in the Byzantine period. Many places claim the story—my original notes mentioned 33 cities—although Ephesus is central to many Christian accounts. In Turkey, the cave near Tarsus, the birthplace of Saint Paul, is another well-known pilgrimage destination. Excavations at Ephesus in 1927–28 uncovered fifth- and sixth-century burials, with inscriptions dedicated to the Seven Sleepers on tombs and church walls.

Saint John’s hill and the castle: my notes describe the elevated fortified area, its cisterns and the church of Saint John, connecting the hill with the earliest settlement in the Ephesus area. It is another important stop around Selçuk.

Seyirtepe

The panoramic restaurant in Bayraklı places İzmir at your feet while you enjoy a meal. The view has a different beauty by day and by night.

Şirince

Earlier forms of the village’s name included Kirkice, Kirkince and Çirkince; it was officially renamed Şirince on the instructions of İzmir governor Kazım Dirik in the early years of the Turkish Republic. Its name suggests charm, and it lives up to it with lovely houses, a church, wonderful food, wines and vineyards. Such a sweet little place.

Urla

About 35 kilometres from central İzmir, Urla has cafés with views, a harbour full of sailing boats and restaurants serving delicious fish. It is lively and lovely enough to make leaving difficult. Hire a bicycle or set out on foot and explore.

Çeşme, Alaçatı and Ilıca

Çeşme is roughly 90 kilometres from İzmir. My original historical notes connect the area with the Turkish seafarer Çaka Bey in the late eleventh century and Ottoman rule in the late fourteenth century; Çeşme Castle is one of its striking Ottoman landmarks. Broad white-sand beaches, accommodation and thermal springs have made the peninsula a popular holiday destination. Warm springs emerge near Ilıca, and the gently shelving water was one of the beach’s attractions in my account. The original text also made a health claim about ultraviolet exposure in thermal shallows; that is not a basis for health advice, and shallow water does not remove sun or swimming risks. For sightseeing, I think of three main areas: Alaçatı, Ilıca and central Çeşme with its marina. Alaçatı is often the favourite: its quiet daytime streets fill up in the evening, remaining busy late into the night. Small shops, restaurants and boutique hotels in narrow lanes can make you feel as though you are on a Greek island or the Italian coast. The windsurfing beach, about 15 minutes from the centre in my notes, has conditions that attract enthusiasts and schools for beginners. Ilıca’s broad beach is especially busy during the day, with many accommodation choices nearby. My original article mentioned the Sheraton beside the beach; hotel names and operators may since have changed. Waterfront cafés and restaurants serve kumru, the local sandwich, and people say some of the best İzmir-style versions are made here. Central Çeşme has a pedestrian shopping street lined with restaurants and souvenir shops, leading down to the sea. Along the waterfront you find the castle and the marina, which gets particularly lively in the evening. The marina has numerous restaurants, many specialising in fish, and is a place I would include in any Çeşme visit.

Çeşme

Çeşme

Çeşme–Ilıca

Ilıca Beach

Alaçatı

Alaçatı’s lovely little streets

A place out of a fairy tale. 🙂

A personal note: what more could you want? Go, explore—or even live there! 🙂 İzmir is a city I could happily call home. Writing this took quite a bit of energy, but also reminded me how much I miss it. You may feel you have covered a lot of ground just reading it! 😀 I hope it is useful.