Bozcaada: Beaches and Things to Do

Travel notes

Getting to Bozcaada

Bozcaada

Turkey’s third-largest island, Bozcaada is also a district of Çanakkale province. We reached it by car ferry from Geyikli—and really liked that village when we passed through. My original article also mentioned sea-bus services from central Çanakkale; check current routes and seasonal schedules. Known as Tenedos in antiquity, the island is associated with winemaking and fishing. A wind farm with 17 turbines and a reported capacity of 10.2 MW opened near the western cape in June 2000. At its opening, it reportedly produced about thirty times the island’s electricity needs, exporting the surplus to the mainland. Underground cables were used to reduce the visual impact on tourism.

A sense of calm arrives almost as soon as you do. The island has a different atmosphere: you start imagining leaving work behind, buying a little house with a garden and living here. I genuinely felt myself relax and breathe differently. Much of it seemed unspoilt, with a lovely touch of Greek influence. There is plenty to do: windsurfing and kitesurfing at Çayır Beach, or walks and bicycle rides along the relatively gentle roads. Our time was limited, so we chose one of the minibus tours operating around the island. It stopped at several main sights, including a shop with wonderful wines. We bought a bottle and headed towards the wind turbines for sunset. Watching the sun go down with a glass of wine and that view was magnificent.

Bozcaada Castle

The castle protected an island repeatedly exposed to invasion, although its original builder is uncertain. I would not leave without visiting it.

And then there are Bozcaada’s houses and streets! My expectations had been quite modest; I had no idea it would be this lovely, and it exceeded them completely. Much of the island still felt natural when we visited. I hope it stays that way, although I worry about the pressure on historic and natural places in our country. Make time to wander through streets of houses with beautiful doors and windows. Vines, colourful flowers and stone lanes make them so charming, quiet and pleasant.

I loved the informal, characterful restaurants mixing Greek and Turkish influences. The old buildings and relaxed atmosphere were wonderful, and the prices seemed reasonable during our visit. Meze, purslane with apple, stuffed vine leaves, calamari, stuffed courgette flowers and different fish dishes were all delicious. And, if you enjoy it, perhaps a glass of rakı with dinner. 🙂

You are on an island surrounded by the sea, so make time for those wonderfully clear waters. Small hidden coves dot the coast, and their relatively unspoilt setting is part of the appeal. Akvaryum Cove, Ayazma Beach, Mermer Burnu and Habbele are among the best-known spots. My suggestion is to explore and find your own favourite—sometimes simply looking at the colour of the water is enough.

Mermer Burnu

Ayazma Beach

I hope we recognise the value of places like this and protect them. At the time of writing, I had heard rumours about development and new construction, and worried that luxury hotels and venues might alter the island’s character. Those were concerns from that visit, not a statement about current planning decisions. My feeling was simple: do not put off discovering Bozcaada’s special atmosphere.